Monday, September 20, 2010

Visiting Lake Titicaca

Las Islas de Los Uros


I was going to visit the Uros Islands, or the floating reed islands, and the island of Taquile. I really had no idea what I was going to see when I stepped onto the boat. The islands are at 3,810 meters above sea level. I amazed to find that culture had maintained it's way of life living in the lake on islands made of reeds (totora)- simply reeds- for over 3000 years. Today, only a couple hundred decedents of Uros live on and maintain the islands and way of life. Conquistadors would write about the 'savage people'. I actually found them quite amiable, and their way of life peaceful. I marveled at how they had maintained such a way of life that was so in sync with nature. I even considered sticking around, until I discovered the traditional garb I would have to don if I wanted to live among them...


I don't think pink is really my color.

Their existence rested upon what they made with their hands. They women and men continued to hold traditional roles, men as hunters and constructors and women as makers and menders of clothes and gatherers of reeds. However, with the tourist business they have found wealth that has allowed them to purchase solar panels for electricity and televisions and radios for entertainment. The reeds sustained them.

They ate them, too.

Many families live in Puno now, and all children attend school. They typically speak both Aymara and Spanish. They also know 'Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star'. I discover this after they presented a song to us in Aymara, and we were asked to share one of our songs. Only one song came to mind in my moment of panic and humility...

Absolutely stunning.

Check out the website on Wikipedia for more information on the Uros, their culture and traditions: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uros

We continued on to the island of Taquile. It took to hours to reach the small island made of rock and soil. Here there was a completely different culture from the Uros. These people isolated themselves from the culture of those in the nearby port. Foreigners were welcome as tourists, but not welcome to live on the island. I panted my way to the main square at the top of the island. I would be lying if I said that the altitude did not affect me. We were greeted by clever and adorable little girls who would be more than happy to stand in your photo for a sole.


The island was known for it's knitting work and the peculiarities of their culture. We sat down to lunch, a trout fillet with some vegetables and rice, simple, and were presented by our tour guide with the customs of the people. TaquileƱos lived by the Inca moral code- do not steal, do not be lazy, do not lie. They speak Quechua as their first language. They don't wear wedding bands to show they are married, they wear head ornaments- men, the traditional chullo, and women, a headdress at a length typically to their ankles with pompom-like balls attached at the corners- to indicate what their social status is.


The island is a marvel: 5.5 by 1.6 km, approx. 1700 inhabitants.

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